Why red and black currants do not bear fruit: what are the reasons, what to do

Despite the ingrained opinion that currants are an unpretentious plant that produces crops in any conditions, exceptions occur. It happens that black currant does not bear fruit, although at the same time the bush looks healthy outwardly, it blooms, but it is impossible to wait for the berries.

The gardener needs to find out the reason for the lack of harvest, do not rush to uproot the bush as unusable. Perhaps agricultural technology was violated or the disease of the bush was to blame. Only after analyzing the situation and studying the possible causes is it worth making a conclusion about what actions to take to remedy the situation.

When currants begin to bear fruit

Depending on climatic conditions, black currants start growing in spring, from late March to mid-April. On it, the kidneys begin to move a little earlier than on the red one. Fruit clusters appear at the end of shoots growing from mixed buds. They are evenly spaced along the entire length of the branch. The shoots of the second year are considered the most productive. The largest berries are tied at their top. The growth of four-year-old shoots produces small berries that quickly crumble. On branches over 4 years old, the growth is weak, the berries are defective. Such shoots do not bear fruit, they gradually dry out, and they are replaced by new, young ones from the base of the bush, from the root collar. For gardeners, shoots no older than three years are of interest, the rest should be cut out in time.

Red currants bear fruit most strongly on shoots 2-5 years old and older. On its skeletal branches, at the very top, fruit branches grow, where flower buds bloom. The bulk of the berries is on the layer located between the growth of the previous and the current year.

Despite the fact that the budding of black currants occurs earlier, the red one is the first to bloom. Its flowering duration is about 10 days. The flowers of berry bushes are pollinated by bees, so the presence of apiaries near the garden significantly increases the future harvest.

The ovaries form quickly: the berries are ready by mid-July. You must not miss the collection time so that they do not crumble. There is no particular difference in the ripening time of berries between early and late varieties. The exception is the Harmony black currant, which ripens 2 weeks later than other varieties.

The berry bush bears fruit annually. The size of the crop depends on the variety, adherence to agricultural practices, and correct pruning. Black currant begins full-fledged fruiting from the fourth year after planting, red from the second.

Why currants do not bloom

It has been noticed that black currants growing in the forest most often have no problems with flowering and bear fruit well. Unfortunately, this does not always apply to berry bushes growing in garden plots. If young plants bloom, then adults may not even lay buds, let alone bear fruit. An old bush is considered to be over 15 years old. If you do not carry out timely pruning for the purpose of rejuvenation, do not give him top dressing, then such a copy remains uprooted and disposed of.

Some gardeners note that black currant does not bloom, although its bushes are young, develop well, have a lush bright green crown, powerful growths. No amount of fertilizing, watering, and careful maintenance can make them bloom. The reason is that the plant "fattens" - it builds up green mass due to the high nitrogen content in the soil. In order for flowers to appear on the currants, it is necessary to eliminate the imbalance in the receipt of nutrients, limit nitrogen fertilizers, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers at the root.

To resume flowering, experienced gardeners advise:

  • plant different varieties of currants on the site;
  • protect plants from late frosts with all available means;
  • observe the distance between the bushes - 1 m;
  • use potato peelings for feeding;
  • regularly cut out old, damaged and diseased branches;
  • carry out periodic spraying with Bordeaux liquid.

Why are there no berries on the currants

Even with powerful bushes, complete absence of diseases and pests on them, strong flowering in spring, you may not get the desired harvest. In the first two weeks after flowering, the ovaries crumble, the plant does not bear fruit. The phenomenon is associated with the complete or partial infertility of the variety. In such a black currant, berries are tied only under the condition of cross-pollination, when pollen from bushes of other varieties gets on the flowers. The most self-fertile varieties include:

  • Vologda;
  • Belarusian sweet;
  • Openwork;
  • Dashkovskaya.

If it is impossible to plant highly self-fertile black currants, several varieties should be purchased for cross-pollination.

The reason for the lack of berries on the bush can be the acquisition of low-yielding non-varietal plants that look powerful, have dense foliage and do not bear fruit. This variety is considered a weed.

In addition to the indicated reasons why black currant does not bear fruit, the reasons may be as follows:

  • cold weather, when, with a piercing spring wind, the possibility of insect pollination is sharply reduced;
  • viral diseases that prevent the formation of ovaries, leading to infertility of black currant;
  • planting in a shaded place where the plant stops bearing fruit;
  • lack of moisture in the soil.

Wrong choice of seedling

Black currants may not bear fruit if the seedling is chosen incorrectly, the planting material is of poor quality. When purchasing it, you should pay attention to a number of characteristics:

  • the root system should be highly developed (up to 20 cm), branched;
  • shoots - reach a length of 50 cm;
  • there should be no leaves on the seedling.

If available, plants planted in autumn freeze in winter. Moisture is lost through the leaves, and the black currant root can be overdried, which adversely affects its rooting and further development. Before planting, the root system should be slightly shortened and soaked for several hours in water.

Often gardeners complain that even if all the rules for choosing a seedling are followed, red currants do not bear fruit for 2 - 3 years after planting. The reason is damage to flowers by recurrent frosts or the death of fruit buds in winter. This is due to the fact that the wrong variety is selected for a specific climatic zone. Thus, varieties for the southern regions of Russia cannot withstand the harsh conditions of the North-West, the Urals and Siberia. In such plants, the buds start to grow early and, being exposed to low temperatures, do not bloom and do not bear fruit. The freezing of whole last year's shoots, where the main crop should be formed, is possible. If they die, there is no way to wait for the berries.

Important! It is necessary to choose and purchase zoned black currant varieties that can successfully grow, bloom and bear fruit in certain climatic conditions of the region.

Improper care

Violation of the basic rules for caring for a shrub can lead to infertility of black currants:

  • wrong choice of site;
  • improper landing or transplant;
  • non-compliance with the frequency and norms of watering plants;
  • lack of regular annual pruning;
  • illiterate feeding;
  • lack of preventive examinations and treatments for diseases and pests.

The best spot for black currants is in a lighted area with little shade. Berry bushes do not bear fruit in wetlands, pits, depressions, where cold air stagnates during recurrent frosts, the risk of developing pathologies increases. When the garden is located in a lowland, special mounds are made for planting black currants.

Placing bushes next to a fence leads to a decrease in yield if the distance from it is less than 1 m. It is worth considering that red currants are planted at a distance of 1.25 m between bushes and 2 m between rows; black - placed at a distance of 2.5 m between the bushes and 2.5 - between the rows. Only at such a distance do they successfully bear fruit.

Watering should be carried out at least 4 times per season. In hot and dry summers, 50 liters of water must be poured under each bush weekly. Otherwise, black and red currants do not bear fruit, or the berries ripen, but very small.

Pruning of old, dry, damaged branches should be carried out annually, in the fall. It leads to the formation of a strong blackcurrant bush and an increase in its yield.

The plant will actively bear fruit with timely application of fertilizers: in the spring - nitrogen, during the setting and ripening of berries - phosphorus and potash.

Important! With nitrogen-containing top dressing, carried out in September and later, young shoots begin to grow intensively and do not ripen by winter, their buds freeze out, and no fruiting is observed.

For the prevention of diseases, gardeners advise processing with Bordeaux liquid, herbal infusions, boiling water (in early spring).

Unfavorable weather conditions

Before purchasing a seedling, you should make sure that it is suitable for specific climatic conditions, zoned for the growing region. If a plant has a low level of frost resistance and at the same time was acquired for a territory where snowless winters, severe frosts, cold northern winds are frequent, then the buds will inevitably freeze. Such black currants will also suffer during spring and early autumn frosts; most likely, they will not bloom and bear fruit.

Blackcurrant varieties that feel great in the southern regions include:

  • Early sweet;
  • Dove;
  • Gulliver;
  • Overture.

Planting and growing them in the North-West regions of Russia can lead to freezing of the buds and the absence of ovaries.

The most resistant to a drop in air temperature are varieties zoned for Siberia and the Urals, capable of bearing fruit in harsh climatic conditions:

  • Bagheera;
  • Ural beauty;
  • Kola souvenir.

The spring return of cold weather can overtake in any region and lead to shedding of the ovaries after flowering. Experienced gardeners advise spraying to protect black currant bushes from frost. They moisten not only the crown of plants, but also the soil under them several times a night. Everything is covered with a thin crust of ice. When it thaws, heat is released, saving shoots, flowers, ovaries from death. This method of protection should be combined with the traditional covering of plants with non-woven material, burlap. Such methods will increase the chances that the plant will bear fruit successfully.

Diseases and pests

The harvest of berries on black currants may be absent due to pest attacks and disease.

The most common pathology is terry or reversion.

Among its main symptoms:

  • lengthening of leaves, changing their shape;
  • the disappearance of the aroma of berries;
  • the flowers are deformed, stretched and painted in a dirty pink color;
  • a massive barren flower or a ruptured ovary develops.

In the presence of such symptoms, the plant cannot be saved.Simply cutting out the branches will not help; the plant will not begin to bear fruit. The entire bush must be uprooted and burned. In the place where it grew, it is impossible to plant black currants for at least 5 years. If you do not take such action, then all the bushes will soon be amazed with terry.

American powdery mildew significantly reduces the yield of black currant.

Among her symptoms:

  • the appearance of white bloom on young leaves;
  • the transition of the lesion to berries and old leaves;
  • twisting and their further withering away.

For treatment, spraying with phytosporin, Bordeaux liquid, ash or soda solution, serum is used. Blackening as a result of the defeat of powdery mildew branches, cut and disposed of.

Among the diseases of black currant are goblet and columnar rust, which are of fungal origin, weakening plants that prevent it from bearing fruit, significantly reducing the yield if you do not take measures.

The main pests include:

  • kidney mite - affects young kidneys, developing inside and inflating them;
  • glass butterfly - leaves wither, ovaries fall off;
  • ants - eat up the inside of the flowers.
Important! Plants should be regularly inspected and, if necessary, used chemicals or folk recipes to destroy pests.

What to do if the currant blooms but does not bear fruit

The gardener's actions depend on what is the reason for the lack of fruiting after flowering:

  • if the planting site is wrong, transplant the seedling in the fall to a more suitable place;
  • acidic soil - liming it;
  • the plant "fattens" - to reduce soil fertility by adding clay soil, ash, bone meal;
  • "Aging" of the bush - carry out preventive pruning;
  • lack of moisture - increase watering;
  • lack of self-pollination - plant nearby honey plants;
  • terry - cut off diseased shoots or destroy the entire bush;
  • attack of insect pests - treat with chemicals.

Preventive measures for abundant fruiting

In order for the plant to fully bear fruit, it is necessary to perform a number of actions that will ensure a rich harvest and prevent factors that can reduce it:

  1. Plant several varieties of black currant with different flowering times.
  2. Choose varieties that are regionalized for a specific area.
  3. Do not thicken the planting of shrubs.
  4. Correctly feed black currants with potato peelings, nitrogen, potash and phosphorus fertilizers;
  5. Follow the watering and pruning schedule.
  6. Conduct periodic preventive examinations of the bushes, and in case of detection of diseases or pests, urgently take action.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why black currant does not bear fruit. Most of them can be corrected by changing your attitude towards bush caring. Thanks to the huge selection of varieties, it is not difficult to choose a self-fertile black currant that is suitable in all respects, or several bushes capable of cross-pollination. With careful attention to plants, any gardener will always receive a decent harvest of black currant berries and correct all the shortcomings of care, if any.

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