Content
An evergreen plant from the Cypress family in the wild is represented by several species, differing in habit and height. The forest juniper is widespread in the Asian and European parts of Russia, grows in the undergrowth of coniferous and larch forests.
Is it possible to plant a juniper from the forest in the country
Common forest juniper has several varieties, they belong to shrubby and tall tree-like species. They have a decorative crown, fruits with a high concentration of essential oils are suitable for culinary and medicinal purposes. Juniper grows in the forest in place of clearings, in the undergrowth. Occurs on the slopes of mountain ranges. Feels comfortable in open areas and in partial shade.
Due to its exotic appearance, it is used for landscaping urban recreation areas and decorating the backyard landscape. Hybrid species adapted to the conditions of a certain climatic zone are in great demand. You can transplant a forest juniper to your dacha when creating conditions close to the natural environment. Initially determined with a choice, high-growing varieties reach up to 5 m in height, other shrubs are lower, but they have a voluminous crown. The plant is transplanted at a certain time of the year, the recommendations for transfer are followed.
When to replant junipers from the forest
Common juniper grows slowly, tolerates pruning calmly, looks good on the site, like a tapeworm and hedge. The culture has a lot of advantages, but there is a serious minus, the forest representative of Cypress takes root poorly after transfer. The slightest violation of the recommendations during transplantation can lead to the death of the plant.
A forest seedling is taken no older than 3 years of age and no higher than 1 m. The work is carried out when the ephedra has not entered the active phase of the growing season. Planting junipers from the forest in spring is the best option for regions with cold winters. The work is carried out when the snow has partially melted, and the ground has thawed enough to dig out the seedling. In the summer, it is not recommended to transfer the forest juniper to the site. The culture is not stress-resistant, rooting is painful, the plant loses a lot of moisture and, as a rule, transplanted in summer, forest juniper does not take root in a new place.
For the central strip, in addition to spring, forest juniper can be planted in autumn. Work is carried out at the end of September, when sap flow slows down and the plant enters a dormant phase.
How to transplant a juniper from a forest to a site
Before transferring a young tree or shrub, pay attention to where it grows: in an open area or partial shade. This is a prerequisite for determining a site in the country. In order for the culture to take root, it is placed in the same conditions as in the forest.
Sapling digging rules:
- The boundaries of the root system are determined - the forest juniper forms the root and crown of the same volume.
- On the branch on the sunny side, make a landmark, you can tie a ribbon.
- Carefully dig in the bush to the depth of a shovel bayonet.
- Together with the soil lump, the seedling is placed on a cloth or polyethylene by the transfer method.
- Above the crown, a shipping material is tied and carefully pulled above the root.
The landing site is prepared in advance. A forest seedling does not react well to an acidic composition, it is neutralized. In its natural environment, it can grow in wetlands, this mistake is made when transferring a culture to a personal plot. Outside of the usual habitat, forest juniper does not grow on soil with high humidity.
Preparation of the landing recess:
- Forest juniper is planted in a separate hole, if there are several seedlings, you can place them in a trench.
- Deepen the planting hole, focusing on the height of the root ball, up to the neck.
- A nutritious soil is prepared, consisting of compost, peat, sand and soil from the planting site in equal parts.
- Gravel or crushed stone is placed on the bottom, the thickness of the drainage is 15 cm, and on top is part of the fertile mixture.
- The seedling is placed in the center, with the marked side to the sun.
- Fill in the rest of the mixture so that 10 cm remains to the edge of the pit, add wet sawdust, mulch on top with a layer of deciduous humus.
- A support is installed and a forest juniper is fixed to it; you can fix the seedling on stretch marks.
Around the perimeter of the planting hole, a restriction is made in the form of a small embankment to retain moisture. Water the forest seedling with water containing a growth-stimulating drug. If planting is massive in a trench, the distance between the bushes is left at least 1.5 m.
How to care for a juniper
The survival rate and full-fledged vegetation of the culture directly depend on how correctly the forest juniper is planted, as well as on the correctness of the subsequent care. Even if the plant is rooted, in order for the crown to retain its decorative effect, constant sprinkling of the bush is necessary. The main problem is that at low humidity, the needles dries and falls from the lower branches. With improper agricultural technology, you can end up with an unsightly forest juniper with needles only on the upper branches.
Watering and feeding
Hybrid varieties from the nursery take root well on the site, the forest representative of the species requires constant care. Watering is the primary task in agricultural engineering. Waterlogging and drying out of the soil must not be allowed. Water the forest seedling for the first 6 months every evening with a small amount of water, the fibrous root system loses a lot of moisture during rooting. After this period, the frequency of watering is reduced, it is enough to moisten the soil 2 times a week.
Be sure to irrigate the crown in the morning before sunrise. If the forest representative is located in an area open to ultraviolet radiation, it is recommended to protect the needles from excess moisture evaporation. The forest juniper is wrapped in a wet cloth and removed in the evening. This measure is relevant until complete rooting.
If a forest seedling is planted in the fall, it must be fed with nitroammophos in early spring. The dosage indicated in the instructions is observed, the culture does not react well to an excess of fertilizer. Top dressing is carried out for 2 years. Then, forest juniper fertilizers are not required.
Mulching and loosening
After transfer, the seedling is weakened and cannot fully resist the fungal infection. It is necessary to constantly remove the weed, in which pathogenic fungi multiply intensively. Loosening during weeding will provide the root system with a sufficient amount of oxygen, this factor is important for rooting.
Mulch the plant immediately after planting with sawdust, leaf humus, peat or freshly cut grass. Mulch inhibits growth weeds and retains moisture well. In the fall, the layer of the basal shelter is increased, in the spring it is completely replaced.
Trimming and shaping
In the care of the forest juniper after planting, pruning is included only if the plant has completely taken root.The result of the autumn transfer will be visible in May: the forest seedling has taken root or died. You can remove dry areas and give the crown the desired shape. The procedure is carried out before the mass formation of young shoots. If the planting is spring, in the fall the seedling is not touched, the first pruning is carried out next spring.
Each year, a near-trunk circle is formed:
- A shallow ditch is being dug along the perimeter of the crown.
- Fallen leaves are laid in it.
- Lay a layer of lime on top.
- Fill the moat around the entire circle with earth in the form of a ridge.
The works are carried out in the fall. The forest juniper grows slowly, as the crown increases in volume, the trunk circle also increases.
Protection against diseases and pests
The forest representative of the species does not get sick in the wild; it retains this quality even when transplanted to the site. If rust appears, the only reason is the wrong location. Forest juniper is treated with copper sulfate.
The culture releases substances that are toxic to most pests. There are a number of parasitic insects that do not react to toxic glycosides in needles. The plant is affected:
- Juniper sawfly. When a pest appears, the plant is treated with "Karbofos", the remaining larvae are harvested by hand.
- Shield - a frequent parasite at low humidity. To eliminate it, daily sprinkling is carried out. The forest juniper is sprayed with a highly concentrated soap solution. If the measures are ineffective, insecticides are used.
- Aphid. The insect does not appear on the ephedra on its own, ants carry it, then collect waste. It is necessary to get rid of anthills in the area, then remove the places where the parasite accumulates. Without ants, the remaining insects die.
In the natural environment, forest juniper does not affect other types of pests. A spider mite may appear on the garden plot; it is eliminated with colloidal sulfur.
Preparing for winter
A seedling in the first year of growth in another place requires shelter for the winter, regardless of what time the work was carried out. Sequence of the event:
- Moisture-charging irrigation is carried out.
- Increase the mulch layer by 15 cm.
- The branches are collected in a bunch and fixed in such a position that they do not break under the weight of the snow.
- Arcs are made from above and the film is stretched, if the forest seedling is tall, wrapped with a covering material or covered with spruce branches.
Preparatory work for the winter is carried out within 2 years. After the forest juniper is not covered, only mulch.
Experienced gardening tips
In order for a juniper to be transplanted from the forest safely, and the plant to take root in a new place, certain rules must be followed. The advice of experienced gardeners is based on previous mistakes, if you exclude them, the perennial plant will not only take root on the site, but also tolerate stress more easily.
Transfer and boarding rules:
- Work is carried out in the fall before frosts or in the spring, when the snow has not completely melted.
- Before removing the culture from the soil, a landmark is made on the crown from the sunny side; when placed on the site, polarity must be observed.
- Dig the seedling carefully so as not to damage the root, the width of the soil coma should not be less than the volume of the crown. If the earthen lump is too large and the transportation of the juniper is difficult, it is reduced in depth.
- The plant is transferred along with the root ball, it must not be allowed to shed. The forest juniper is completely placed in a plastic bag or wrapped in a cloth.
- The planting recess is prepared in advance; drainage and nutrient mixture must be placed.
- The size of the hole should correspond to the volume of the coma, voids should not be allowed, they are filled up and carefully compacted.
- The place is determined in partial shade.If planting involves an open area, daily sprinkling is necessary, forest juniper reacts poorly to low air humidity, especially in the first year of growth in a new place.
- It is undesirable to plant a forest juniper next to buildings, the branches of the plant are fragile, the descent of water or snow from the roof can cause significant damage to the crown.
- After planting, it is necessary to water with a growth-stimulating drug.
Apple trees provoke the development of rust, the plant is weak after transfer, the disease will develop within a few weeks, it will be difficult to save the forest juniper.
Conclusion
The forest juniper does not take root well in a new place, but the procedure is quite possible subject to certain rules. For transferring a forest juniper to a summer cottage, planting dates are observed, a place is chosen as close as possible to the natural environment. Do not allow the soil to dry out, carry out constant spraying of the seedling.
